Vegtam promised to dedicate a post to Finland. Typing on a virtual keyboard isn't very convenient, but he will try to keep his promise.
The most important part of the trip, without a doubt, is the Tuska Open Air Metal Festival. July 22-24 is almost entirely dedicated to this event.
Tuska, July 22, Friday.
It's impossible to get lost: Helsinki is swarming with metalheads, and following them will definitely lead you to the festival. Five subway stations from the hotel on the only Helsinki line – and I'm already in an industrial area in the suburbs. There's no free space on the grass near the entrance; it's all occupied by people relaxing and drinking – security is very strict, and it's impossible to bring even a drop of alcohol inside.
At the entrance, a ticket printed at home is exchanged for a bracelet that cannot be removed without damage – this will be the pass.
At the festival, you can meet all sorts of people – there are plenty of well-dressed people of all ages, even with children; there are punks in Misfits/Ramones/Sex Pistols t-shirts (no, there wasn't anyone with "I Hate Pink Floyd" like Sid Vicious); there were people in ripped denim jackets and with mohawks; there were a few Rastafarians and even a couple of hippies. But the majority are still metalheads. Goths in top hats, crosses, and leather; cyberpunks, distinguished from their peers by the presence of purple/red/green spots in their clothes/hair; folk and battle metal fans in kilts and war paint; melodic death metal fans in military attire; heavy metal fans in jeans, bandanas, and hats; I only saw one black metal fan, and even he only had partial corpse paint; and just metalheads of all kinds in t-shirts with the names of their favorite bands, from Iron Maiden to Korpiklaani, from Epica to Burzum, from Led Zeppelin to Bullet For My Valentine.
Arch Enemy
When I got inside, they had already started playing. I couldn't get close, so I had to watch the screens placed on either side of the main stage, Radio Rock Stage, from a distance. Angela Gossow, the vocalist, was giving it her all, growling wildly, waving a flag with the band's logo. At the end of the performance, along with the usual flaglets, badges, and bottles of water that the musicians didn't use, napkins that Angela had previously used to wipe her face and chest, and even pretended to wipe her anus, flew into the crowd from the stage... the fans must have been delighted.
Electric Wizard
I listened to only a couple of songs and went to the adjacent market, where I bought an Amon Amarth t-shirt, which I wore for the next two days. Then I went home; the early wake-up and long journey were taking their toll.
Tuska, July 23, Saturday.
Witchery
Not very well-known black metal band (actually thrashers, but with extreme vocals). I was able to get close to the stage, or rather, the left side of it – it was impossible to get to the center. I heard them for the first time; I liked them a lot, and I'll be looking for their recordings. At one point, a circle pit formed in the center.
Epica
Imaris's favorite band; I recorded a three-minute excerpt on my phone for him. This time, I got to the stage on the right flank. The band members regularly headbanged during the performance, while the audience, although numerous, was mostly non-metalheads, and they supported the band rather weakly. At the beginning of the performance, clouds began to gather, and during the third song, it started to rain – strange, the folk metal band wasn't performing yet.
Moonsorrow
They played on one of the covered stages, Inferno Stage, and all the space under the tent was filled with people. I heard them for the first time, too. The rain, which had stopped, started again, quite predictably.
Katatonia
The performance was exceptionally gloomy. I listened for a while, walked around the area, and went back to the hotel to rest and eat – in the evening, two of the three bands that I came to the festival for were playing.
Blind Guardian
I was delayed at the entrance – a Finn stopped me and was very interested in why I came to the festival, and when I got to the stage, they were already playing their second song. At the end of the song, the vocalist addressed the people in German, apologized for his Swedish accent (the Finns found this funny), and then said: "You didn't come here to listen to German – you came here to listen to good Tolkienian music." And the band started playing Nightfall. This sent the crowd into a frenzy – in the chorus, the audience sang almost louder than the vocalist; my voice also joined in.
Next was Valhalla. During the song, the musicians fell silent... and for a minute and a half to two minutes, the audience sang the lines on their own:
Valhalla – Deliverance
Why've you ever forgotten me
beating the rhythm with hundreds of raised hands. It was fantastic.
Enslaved
They played Fusion of Sense and Earth, Ruun ("Are there many Finns here?" *the crowd of Finns answers in unison, yes* "And Swedes, Norwegians?" *two dozen voices answer in unison, yes* "So, guys, this song is for you!" *draws two runes in the air with two index fingers* "RUUN!!!"), Return To Yggdrasil, and other songs, and at the end, delaying their performance by a few minutes, they played one of their first songs, from their first demo. There was little space, and there were many headbangers, and I was one of them. I don't know how I managed to fall asleep after that.
Tuska, July 24, Sunday
Turisas
A popular local battle metal band – they sang and spoke mainly in Finnish. All the members of the band, except the accordionist, came on stage in war paint, which was repeated by their most devoted fans. There is only one guitarist, so fantastic solos were played on the electric violin. They played "Dark Eyes" in a metal style. The crowd chanted "Battle!!! Battle! Metal! Battle!!!" jumped with their fists raised, and staged a circle pit in the middle, which looked more like a mass dance. I left about five minutes before the end of the performance to take a place for the headliners of the third day, for whom I came here.
Amon Amarth
Surtr, burning the world, was drawn on the backdrop; the last performance of the festival was accompanied by fire and fireworks. The Vikings gave Tuska a worthy Ragnarok. They played: Asator, Cry of the black birds, Runes to my memory, War of Gods, Death in fire, Destroyer of the Universe, Guardians of Asgard, and, of course, Twilight of the Thunder God. My palms ached from clapping, my hands from making the devil horns, my neck from headbanging, my legs from standing for a long time, and my ears from the noise, but the delight more than made up for it all. My first festival was great.
On the 25th, I bought some board games and a whistle, visited an amusement park. The quote of the day: "If you call a whistle a flute, you'll get hit in the face." Today, I just walked around the center, and I was glad to find a monument to the Kalevala and the man who compiled it, Elias Lönnrot. Tomorrow, I'm flying home.
Photos and videos.
Cameras were not allowed at Tuska. If you're interested, I recommend searching for Tuska 2011 on YouTube. There are videos of Valhalla, by the way. And here are some photos:
http://backsteidz.com/2011/07/25/galerii-tuska-open-air-2011/
http://massimmolation.net/entry.php/292-Tuska-Open-Air-2011-Photos.-ALL-YOUR-BANDWIDTH-ARE-BELONG-TO-US!
In the attachments:
A Jew's harp (Austrian mouth harp) and a whistle (Generation Brass D).
New board games (I've wanted to make a photo report about a game from my collection for a long time).
A recording of the whistle, I'm slowly learning to play it.
I'll be happy to answer questions and comments.