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Greetings to all fans of the Heroes of Might & Magic III universe!

I would like to invite you to participate in a project dedicated to creating a reference guide for HoMM III.

The topic itself is not new. There are many individual resources dedicated to describing the physics of the Heroes world, but despite all efforts, it is extremely difficult to find an information source that can be unequivocally classified as a reference guide.

This work does not claim to be original and is the result of compiling various official (Player's Manual) and unofficial (forums and websites) sources dedicated to describing the internal world of the game.

The file in Excel and PDF formats can be found at the following link:
http://vk.com/fizmig

At the moment, the work on the project is not yet fully completed, if it is even possible to complete it... :) Therefore, I would be grateful if anyone would like to participate in it and share their opinions, knowledge, and advice. An updated version of the document will be posted at the specified address for all those who wish. A link to the author will definitely be included. :)

Not all the information provided in this reference guide can be considered official, because it contains observations and assessments of players who wished to share their opinions about the features of the game. But, nevertheless, in general, it достаточно realistically reflects the physics of the Heroes world and will undoubtedly be useful to any beginner.

Given the above, any comments, clarifications, and explanations are welcome. Any suggestions regarding a more optimal form of presenting the information provided will also be valuable.

Sincerely,
AmberSoler
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AmberSoler;174222

How does Defend (skipping a turn, right?) during battle help a bound unit attack the enemy?

As far as I understand, it doesn't help at all. The idea is that the bound enemy can only perform two actions (or rather, three actions :)).
1) Attack the unit standing on the adjacent cell.
2) Wait.
3) Defend.
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By the way, I think it would be a good idea to add a section on templates to the reference guide.
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Suggested by the esteemed smallest, I found a wonderful article on one of the gaming resources authored by Wic (www.heroes.by) dedicated to playing as Castle. I couldn't resist reposting it on our forum.

***

"For the topic of this article, I decided to take strategies for playing as Castle, as I have studied this town most thoroughly and played the most games with it in practices and tournaments. Plus, this town combines perhaps the greatest ease of mastery and ease of play compared to other towns, while still possessing enough strength to compete on equal terms against any other town.

Although objectively speaking, this town is not the strongest; there are some drawbacks that place it roughly in the middle of the preference ratings for most players.

Due to the aforementioned reasons, this town is popular; during pre-game town drafting, players aren't afraid to take it for themselves or give it to an opponent. In the autumn ladder season on heroes.by, Castle took 2nd place (out of 9 towns) in terms of number of games played and 5th place in win percentage.

Strategies for playing as Castle.

This town is notable for its difficult build tree. Crusaders require a forge, horses need stables, monks need a guild, and one also wants to upgrade the archers on day 1. That is, while many other towns can put up 6-7 dwellings with a castle in the first week, Castle usually puts up no more than 4-5 dwellings, often including a stronghold.

But there are advantages. Firstly, starting breakthrough power: archers with a screen can accomplish a great deal even in the hands of a weak hero. Secondly, overall growth strength, which even when incomplete is often capable of standing equal to full growths of other towns. And thirdly, angels — one of the best level 7 units, who are built on the first week if resources are sufficient, or even with a castle (which, however, only makes sense on some fixes) given easy guards or abundant freebies.

If we consider fixes, Castle is good on maps of the following types:

1) Maps where there are enough resources to build angels.

2) Maps with a large number of difficult guards that must be broken through to build up.

3) Maps with native level 7 dwellings. Angels are power.

4) Maps with an abundance of random external same-type dwellings, strong external dwellings, and other objects from which it makes sense to take an army instead of building the home town, as success here depends not on growth strength but on starting army strength.

Correspondingly, it is poor:

1) On poor maps with a small number of resources

2) On maps with a shortage of wood, the need to buy a boat, etc.

3) On maps where angels almost, but not quite, fit. Here the gap with other races is the largest, as they can often slot in a 7th dwelling with a castle or stronghold, while Castle has to make do with horses and other small fry. Or respectively take a loan for angels, trading resources, delaying the moment of introducing growth into the game and thus losing tempo.

On random maps, as I said, Castle is, in my opinion, roughly in the middle of the town strength rating.

Heroes:

The situation with heroes for Castle is similar to its build-up — there's often no one to lead a very good army; the hero pool overall is weaker than in many other towns, and often a hero from another town must be taken as the main.

This is especially critical on random maps because on fixes the starting hero is random, but on random they are chosen. And for Castle there are 3 main options:

1) Valeska (archer spec, leadership and archery) — the most common option; a striking stack of shooters is power, archery in skills complements it, and additional archer growth upon Valeska reaching level 7 is also not superfluous.

2) Turis (horse spec, leadership and tactics) — a more stable early-game and more powerful long-term option; at the start, she's good due to having tactics (which protects against morale, eases breaking through shooter guards, and on expert accelerates the hero using pokemon in a hidden stack), thicker screening of pokemon and griffins, and from the 2nd week, additional horse growth, extra speed, and HP for them kick in.

3) Caitlin (gold spec, wisdom and intelligence) — for aesthetes and those feeling nostalgic. In the times of Chaos League, it was Katya who was the standard starting hero for Castle due to starting with zero resources. In TE, gold specs were buffed; now as they level up, they bring in more and more dough, so even now Katya is sometimes taken as a starting hero (mostly for fun), despite the fact that modern tournaments start with 10k money. Naturally, a fighter is then taken as the main in the long run.

Most players now start with Valeska, however, I personally prefer Turis due to greater stability on heavy respawns and greater power later — a good fighter doesn't always come to the tavern, and Valya from a late-game perspective is not the most successful option.

Among other heroes, Sorcha (knight spec, leadership and offense) is not bad, sometimes Edrick (griffin spec, leadership and armor), that's pretty much all. And the list of heroes who are more promising than all these is quite large — most barbarians and swamp-dwellers, many demons, overlords, rangers.

Therefore, even when playing as Valya/Turis, it makes sense to switch to a reasonably decent fighter when they arrive in the tavern. This is because knights don't level up very well; compared to many other fighters, they less frequently get valuable skills like offense, armor, logistics, not to mention having such a low-utility skill as leadership from the start.

However, they have a high chance of becoming a Governor, so even when switching to another hero, it makes sense to level Valya/Turis/Sorcha/Edrick at least to level 7 for the additional growth and to see what skills they get. In one game, I gathered 3 potential Governors at once (though I only leveled one to 7, as bonuses do not stack).

On fixes with a random starting hero, you have to play with what you're given, but the benchmarks among fighters are roughly the same. True, on fixes it's quite convenient to play Castle as a mage — the starting army is strong enough, there are few problems breaking through, and then perhaps strong magic will arrive.

Build-up.

The complexity of the build tree leads to a variety of options in this component and a strong dependence on the amount of resources obtained. Essentially, there are 4 main options:

1) Angels.

The angel option is usually carried out on more or less rich fixed maps. On random, angels on the 1st week are a great rarity due to money, and 6 horses are no worse than 2 angels in terms of breaking into various banks.

The total cost of angels with a stronghold and archer upgrade is:

20 wood + 25 stone + 12 of each precious resource + 31500 coins

The main bottleneck is usually money, but you can sometimes miss out on resources too — if you took mines late (on fixes), didn't find the required resource in piles, have no external dwelling to build a market there, etc. But once angels are up, you can distribute them among own "noobs" and sharply accelerate the tempo of territory exploration, and they are extremely valuable in serious battles. Sometimes resources are slightly lacking and cannot be compensated by the bank; in this case, one can forgo the stronghold, put up a market, and trade for what's needed, even at extortionate prices.

A completely greedy option, possible on rare fixes with abundant free resources and easy guards — angels with a castle; in this case, archers are not upgraded on the first day. This will cost: 25 wood + 30 stone + 12 of each precious resource + 35500 coins.

I do not recommend using such a build order without prior thorough scouting of the map for its feasibility.

2) Horses.

A more economical development option — building horses with a castle and archer upgrade. Total cost: 50 wood + 25 stone + 18500 coins.

The main problem is wood. On fixes with few piles of wood, no sea, and generally few resource piles, you can miss out on both horses and angels; on such maps, it's better to cross Castle off your list and try to give it to the opponent. On random, if there are 3 piles of wood at the sawmill, horses usually go up, but with one pile, none, or total unavailability of the sawmill, there is a serious risk of being left without horses, which is reason to consider a restart.

Essentially for random, horses with a castle on the first week is a good result, but it's not always achieved. Sometimes the castle doesn't go up, either due to money or resources, less often due to tempo. If poverty of the respawn was discovered in the first days of the week, it makes sense to put up a thousand. If in the last days, then griffins.

3) Griffins

If resources/money are really tight and a restart is no longer an option, you need to build something very economical. That is, either monks or griffins.

Griffins with a castle and bastion will cost:

20 wood + 30 stone + 13500 coins, which for very little money gives a stack of 25 griffins on the 2nd week (and up to 35 considering those arriving with heroes), with an upgrade that replaces horses quite well. On random, I think this is the optimal option when wood is lacking.

Griffins with a bastion and stronghold will cost accordingly:

10 wood + 20 stone + 8500 coins. Mere crumbs; this build option is good for quickly taking a promising external dwelling or an AI town, which will take the main funds. In the remaining days, one can put up a thousand or a market.

With a castle, they will cost:

30 wood + 35 stone + 2 of each precious resource + 16500 coins. As seen, the price gap from horses is not large, noticeably more expensive than griffins, and the use of 9 monks is often less than that of 25 griffins. Therefore, this build order may be useful only in conditions of strict necessity to break through a strong squad of thick slow-movers, where remote fire power is more important than overall army strength.

4) Mix.


However, there is also a hybrid option — monks with griffins and stronghold. This pleasure will cost:

20 wood + 30 stone + 2 of each precious resource + 12500 coins. Cheap and cheerful. On some fixes it might be quite decent, but on random, monks are generally little use.

However, all options without horses and angels are in my opinion not correct, so on fixes where events may force you to do so, it's better to cross Castle off your list, and on random restart if possible. Nevertheless, it is worth knowing these options; who knows what might happen in tournament games.

Specifically regarding monks — the unit is basically decent, but it's a shooter, which greatly narrows its area of applicability. The thing is, heavy battles for towns with an orientation toward shooters assume a scheme of closing those shooters in a corner with the bodies of thick contact units followed by kiting and shooting enemies.

With two shooter slots, doing this becomes difficult, often only possible with Tactics, and in various banks it's often completely impossible. And you can't take shooters in Utopia.

A similar picture emerges for other towns with two or three shooter units — Tower, Dungeon, Conflux, Barbarians. In particular, for Tower, it happens that mages aren't bought out at all, and if they are, they go to open a second front, and as ones for reducing spell cost. Conflux solves this problem by upgrading only one type of elemental (usually air), while the second remains a contact unit. As for Dungeon and Barbarians, they are more oriented toward contact units, so there the first shooter doesn't have priority in buyouts, and the second shooter is often bought out already for battles with the opponent.

As a result of all this, on random when playing as Castle, players often simply ignore monk external dwellings on the respawn, as they don't intend to build them, and fighting for and buying them means spending moves, money, and army (taking monks without horses with tactics is costly in losses). In my memory, I took them on the 1st week only once when I found 3 at once, but still didn't build them in the town.

However, on the 2nd week it is desirable to take monk external dwellings and build them in the town if possible — for the long term; they are often very useful in battles with the opponent.

General strategy of conducting a game.

It's clear that much here depends on the developing situation — layout, distance to the opponent, their state of affairs, and much more. Therefore, I will share some general considerations.

So, the starting army is bought and runs away from home to cultivate the territory.

With a good layout, horses are built on the 5th day; here you can open a second front with them and crusaders (and if lucky with heroes in the tavern, also ballista/tent) for deep cleaning of the territory — recovering money and resources that the starting army lacked tempo for. If another town's hero was appointed as the main, Turis should be sent to the second front — because of bonuses to horses, tactics, and it's also desirable to level her up.

In the end, a good starting army, generally rich respawns, and help from the second front usually allow for decent development on the 1st week. A natural desire to rush arises.

But — Castle essentially has nothing to storm towns with on the 2nd week. Of flyers, only griffins, which are rarely built on good respawns; archers are frail and die quickly under tower fire, enemy shooters, and magic.

In an open field it's easier; archers get a chance to show themselves, contact slots are also good, horses alone are worth a lot, but besides them and crusaders (whom it is desirable to upgrade before rushing), Castle essentially has nothing else. While many other towns are able to put out 3-4 good contact stacks.

Therefore, a rush is realistically justified only if you've quickly shaken loose a bunch of angels from cans. That is, I wouldn't seriously orient toward this strategy; it's purely based on the situation.

On the other hand, Castle has real late-game reinforcement — its own angels, and later archangels. Therefore, the most promising development option on the 2nd week besides cleaning cans and hives is collecting money and necessary resources for building angels.

Then on the 3rd week (and in separate cases even on the 2nd), having gathered a decent stack of angels, you can take one or two Utopias and use the same money to upgrade the angels. And then on the 3rd or 4th week, a truly strong army is assembled; besides archs, griffins and monks are added, which compensates for the initial incomplete set of slots. After all, Castle's full growth is perhaps the strongest among all towns, and upgrading canned angels helps.

So, roughly such a scenario of game development should be oriented toward by default. And further, as the game goes...

Starting army.

Coming with heroes: 10-20 pokemon, 5-7 archers, and 3-4 griffins.

Exceptions:
Valeska (archer spec) — 3 slots of 4-5 archers each
Edrick (griffin spec) — pokemon + 2 slots of griffins

Total for Castle at the start under arms are usually 34-54 pokemon + 19-23 archers + 6-8 griffs.

Starting with Valeska: accordingly 24-34 pokemon + 26-31 archers + 3-4 griffs

The arrival of Edrick can spoil the combat qualities of the starting army, especially if Valeska is not there.

Battle tactics on the 1st week.

As written above, I start exclusively as Turis, so battle schemes are mainly oriented toward her (or noobs with an army from her). But battle schemes for Valeska don't differ much, and in cases of notable differences, I will point them out.

It's clear that in a real game situations vary; it's impossible to describe everything, much is decided by the situation, so I will describe the most typical layouts and their resolution schemes; these are kind of reference points from which tactics for each specific battle can be composed.

1) Ordinary battles.

Against stompers, the strategy in most cases is simple — archers in the corner, griffs and pokemon surround them, ones either run-lead monster stacks away or create a second defensive ring.

Popular formations on grass:

1) archers-1p1p-pokemon-1p-griffs-1p
2) 1p-griffs-1p-1p-1p-pokemon-archers

On other terrain types:

3) archers-1p-pokemon-1p-griffs-1p-1p
4) 1p-1p-griffs-1p-1p-pokemon-archers

There's no special difference in most cases, a matter of taste, although with the upper formation it's slightly more convenient to surround main troops with ones, as when traveling down, ones often get in each other's way. And against monsters with speed equal to griff/archer speed, it is sometimes useful for archers to move before griffs.

If few or no griffins are left, you need to divide pokemon stacks, for example: 1p–1p–1p–1p–pokemon–pokemon–archers. Such a formation against two-hex units (centaurs, wolves, cerberi, etc.), where 2 stacks protect archers from encroachments. Against one-hex ones, you have to either divide into 3 stacks or, better yet, barricade the third field with ones.

Against fast but frail monsters (butterflies, for example), you can arrange like this: archers–pokemon–griffs–1p–griffs–pokemon–archers. Thus, both corners are occupied by archers with a screen; this allows more effective use of excess firepower. And in case one of the archer squads is suddenly blocked from the start by a morale-boosted stack, the second will remove the block.

Against shooter guards, the formation is: archers in the 7th slot, pokemon in the 4th, griffs in the rest; can be evenly or not, in the latter case the main griffin stack doesn't just block but fights.

All griffs immediately fly forward hoping for morale, blocking shooters (and if they are strong, they block without attacking, staying in defense), meanwhile pokemon push forward, archers shoot. It is important to quickly bring pokemon into a direct line so that they are hit, not the archers. If you have a book, haste on someone is welcomed, stone skin on archers or pokemon (shield does not affect ranged attacks).

Sometimes it makes sense to tackle weak shooter guards (gremlins, halflings) without archers — griffs and pokemon will handle it anyway, and archers will definitely get chipped. And if you go with archers, you can divide them into 2 stacks — to use firepower more effectively (for example, if an archer stack deals much more damage than there are hits in a monster stack).

Archers stand below griffs so the latter move first, and archers then shoot those not blocked by griffs. Although if the guard's speed is same as archers, they should be put in the 1st stack — to hit first.

If griffs fly in on the first turn (expert tactics) and the guard's speed is less than archer speed, you need to push forward with tactics so they hit in a direct line.

With strong shooter guards and a knight-main, leadership is often preferable in leveling over a second skill — more chance for morale. Although for Turis, tactics are often more profitable — with expert tactics griffs fly in on the first turn.

With tactics there is one trick that allows strengthening its effect in some situations. The thing is, two-hex units when placed manually stand nose-first on the edge cell, but during automatic placement they stand rear-first on it. Therefore, if after placing griffs in position you press "A", and after computer placement Esc, they will be one cell closer to the opponent. With this trick on grass, griffs reach two-hex shooters (ice maidens, medusas) even with advanced tactics, and with expert they reach everything. This also allows suffering less from the battlefield terrain..."

To be continued...

2) Taking crypts.
3) Taking gnome-dwellings.
4) Taking imp-dwellings.
5) Taking medusa-dwellings.
6) Taking naga-banks.
7) Taking cans."
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this article is already available in the "school of mastery" topic, in the "Tactics" subforum; it was posted by Gunnar:rolleyes:

and the necessary links to templates can be found on one of the latest pages of the "tactics for playing as Fortress" topic, in the same subforum.
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We are looking forward to the most interesting parts of the sequel!
Барук Казад! Казад аи-мену! => "Гномы ням-ням."- сказал дракон. :smile19: Люди пейте гномояд!:smile51:
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Thank you for the hint; the article is indeed already available on the forum, so anyone interested can view it here:

/topic/at/154042/
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I came across another interesting formula.

"Maybe some people don't know that it can sometimes be beneficial to divide the cows. The probability of an attack increases stepwise as the number of cows approaches a single unit.
For example, the 22nd cow has a 35% chance of killing 3 enemies.
But if you divide them into groups of 11, each group has a 30% chance of killing 2 enemies. This means there's a chance to kill 4 enemies at once, which wasn't possible with a single herd of cows!"
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smallest;175163
...That is, there is a chance to kill 4 at once, which was not possible with just one herd of cows!
Everything depends on whether there is a limit on the maximum number of units that can take down a stack of Mighty Gorgons... The maximum number is equal to

D(max)=N/10+1, where N is the number of Gorgons in the stack (rounded down to the nearest whole number).

The most effective division in the example above would be: 1+1+1+1+1+1+16.
The first stack takes a retaliatory strike, the rest attack without losses. The maximum possible (additional) damage in this case would be 8 enemy units in the first round of battle, 6 in the second, 4 in the third, and 2 in the fourth... In total, 20 units in the end (if you're very lucky, of course :) )... But what if the opponent had Azure Dragons? :)
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It downloads, but only reaches 60 KB and then stops.
Первый, кто был забанен за Правду.
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AmberSoler;175173
It all depends on whether there is a limit on the maximum number of units that a stack of Mighty Gorgons can defeat... The maximum number is equal to

D(max)=N/10+1, where N is the number of Gorgons in the stack (rounded down to the nearest whole number).

The most effective division in the example above would be: 1+1+1+1+1+1+16.
The first stack takes the initial hit, and the rest attack without losses. The maximum possible (additional) damage in this case would be 8 enemy units in the first round of combat, 6 in the second, 4 in the third, and 2 in the fourth... A total of 20 units in the end (if you're very lucky, of course :) )... But what if the opponent had Azure Dragons? :)

All that remains is to compare the probabilities :)

Added 9 minutes later
I'll risk copying another assumption

"I present to your court the 'final solution to the Mordor problem' (c), or What we know about Wyverns.

Let's start with the official data. The game's reference states:

Wyverns and wyvern monarchs attack with swipes of their stinging tails. The wyvern monarch’s stinger has a chance of poisoning its target for three rounds. The top creature of a poisoned troop loses 50% of its health each round. Poisoning can only be removed by the Cure spell.

In the Bukowski translation, this means that

Wyverns and wyvern monarchs sting their opponents with their sharp tails. The poisonous stinger of a wyvern monarch can poison the victim for 3 turns. The first creature in the poisoned stack loses 50% of its health each turn. Such a stack can only be cured with the Cure spell.

As one well-known person said, 'this is once again a case of so-called lies.'

What does practice show? And here it is.
Let's conduct a simple experiment. Hotsit, 2 heroes with 0 attack, all other parameters at 99, and knowing all the spells. One has 7 stacks of 1 upgraded wyvern each, and the other has 4000 pikemen. So, we slowly attack them, poison them, revive them, heal them... in general, we experiment. The result is as follows.

Poisoning is applied with a probability of 20% and lasts for 3 rounds. Each turn, it removes 10 percent of the maximum number of hit points of all creatures in this stack + it also poisons one creature in this stack for 10% of its maximum health. At the end of the poisoning, the stack has 70% health remaining forever, until this is removed by healing. Re-poisoning the same stack will result in another 20% reduction in the 'total hit points' over 2 turns and + damage to one creature for 10% of its maximum health for all 3 rounds. Further attempts to poison do not lead to disastrous results for the entire stack, but only affect 1 unit.

Notes:
- A creature that is already poisoned and has the spell active is immune to further poisoning.
- Some creatures cannot be poisoned (I can't compile a list of all such creatures)
- When attacking unicorns, the probability of poisoning them is less than 20% (IMO, I got something like 14-15 out of 100)
- The presence of any expert magic and/or sorcery in the hero does not affect the effect of the poison
- The healing is true - poisoning is not removed by dispel or anything else.
- Added. Check if the resistance skill affects the probability of poisoning.

So, there are no 50% here and there can't be in principle."
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Perhaps we could provide more detailed information about the skill tree in the reference guide? Is it even worthwhile? If there are any correlations between the probabilities of skill drops, how can we describe all of this? Yesterday, I read a post on a forum that claimed that Das and Lorelei in the Dungeon faction have a high probability of getting the Diplomacy skill. I tested it a bit, and it was confirmed for Lorelei; I noticed that it often appears after Scouting reaches the Advanced level. I also observed this with heroes from other factions (Diplomacy after Scouting reaches level 2). I decided to test other random skills, but I didn't have enough time. For example, Gem seems to often get Logistics as a bonus for having a weak initial skill (First Aid).
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A few more remarks:
1. "Fabled Dragons cast a different spell after a waiting period" (sometimes quite useful).
2. "Force Field is removed by an expert dispel."
3. "Ballistics. If there is a skill, you can control a large wagon. Which is not always good. If you take a Castle companion, and press autobattle while the wagon is moving (and immediately right-click to prevent the troops from continuing to move), the wagon will immediately break through the gates (100%)."
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Auto-battle?
Maybe it would be better not to play Heroes, but to write a program that completes all maps and campaigns? And even better, so that it also wins against another player. :smile43:
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Maybe it's better :)

But if you want to better understand my post (if there is such a desire), I recommend you read a few previous pages of this thread.
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It's just a joke:smile42:
People manage to complete some difficult things using auto-battle. And I didn't know about the "wait" command for mythical dragons, thanks.

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