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You, my friend, need to get the H3objed utility by Sergey Rozhenko, also known as GrayFace or SergRoj, from here: http://www.grayface.chat.ru/h3objed.rar. You'll have to figure out how to use it yourself; don't expect it to be easy or convenient. The path is thorny. And one last thing: some objects cannot be changed; it will cause bugs.
And yes, there are actually very few maps like this (we're not counting WoG, which has scripts and other features).